Best way to store Stealth Pro Fisha 550

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aussieDave
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Re: Best way to store Stealth Pro Fisha 550

Post by aussieDave »

I've found that Shep did a pretty significant mod on this yak, check this out...

I found a hole in the seat;
Seat scupper reduced.jpg
And another in each of the footwells;
footwell scupper reduced.jpg
And this on the underside;
scupper outlet reduced.jpg
I then look in the back hatch and there's a huge hole cut into the bottom of it and I can see this;
plumbing reduced.jpg
So it looks like he's put in a scupper system to keep himself dry, I hope it all works well and doesn't leak.

Dave
peatop
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Re: Best way to store Stealth Pro Fisha 550

Post by peatop »

aussieDave wrote:
mingle wrote:I'm a bit perplexed as to why you've had issues with leaks / water-ingress with the A.I. and Revo-16.

They're pretty tried and tested boats and undergo some pretty hair-raising adventures (no pun intended) out on the open ocean.

Mine is a 2011 model and even though I haven't been out on it for about 12 months, I've been out in some pretty atrocious conditions and done some length offshore trips and never had a drop of water inside the hull.

What sort of issues did you have / where did you have leaks? (apologies if I've missed the relevant threads!) Most (all?) of the current Hobies have internal flotation blocks which keep the hull above water in the case of a major hull-breach. Even mine (2011) had this fitted, although I did move some of it, as it go in the way of the centre hatch.

Cheers,

Mike.

...
To catch you up Mike, at NSC18 there was three issues with AI's, one AI broke it's sacrificial pin on the outrigger causing it to collapse while under full sail and flipped, another two took in so much water they had to be rescued, I never, ever want to need to be rescued.

I've also had a couple of Mirage Drive issues in recent weeks, 4 weeks ago I pedaled out of the Saint Kilda chanel here in SA, I got to the end of the chanel and built up to tuna trolling speed as it was a training session and without hitting anything just through the torque I'm putting through it to my turbo fins a mast snapped, 2 weeks ago I was heading for a snapper fish 5km out the Outer Harbour chanel, I got 1km past the end of the breakwalls and in 15 metres of water all of a sudden no power, a drive cable snapped and I then had to paddle for 1:40 into the outgoing very strong current to get back. A lot of my mates that use Outbacks for bay fishing only are amazed that I maintain a constant speed of about 8km/h so I'm thinking I'm having these issues as I'm pushing my Mirage Drive past it's capabilities.
I know some guys like Shane would have fixed these issues on the water but that's not really something I want to be doing.

My Outback has been a fantastic yak and I'll continue to use it for all my bay fishing as with the shorter length it so much better anchored in the short chop we often get here and I have no issues paddling it back a few km but I would hate to be 10km out and break a Mirage Drive.

This yak is also such a great bargain and I reckon having to work so hard to keep the Outback up to tuna trolling speed has cost me fish this summer so I just had to get it.

Dave
Breaking the drive is something you should expect to happen, the only way to prepare for this is to carry spares or change the parts over at intervals prior to expected breakage. But the later could work out to be very expensive and still not garrentee a trouble free outing, the use of glass looks to me a good option for offshore for many reasons, speed would be the big one for me ;)
aussieDave wrote:I've found that Shep did a pretty significant mod on this yak, check this out...

I found a hole in the seat;
Seat scupper reduced.jpg
And another in each of the footwells;
footwell scupper reduced.jpg
And this on the underside;
scupper outlet reduced.jpg
I then look in the back hatch and there's a huge hole cut into the bottom of it and I can see this;
plumbing reduced.jpg
So it looks like he's put in a scupper system to keep himself dry, I hope it all works well and doesn't leak.

Dave
i wonder if the holes are big enough to do other business you often need to do while out on the water :evilgrin: lol
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aussieDave
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Re: Best way to store Stealth Pro Fisha 550

Post by aussieDave »

peatop wrote:i wonder if the holes are big enough to do other business you often need to do while out on the water :evilgrin: lol

hahaha...
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Re: Best way to store Stealth Pro Fisha 550

Post by westy »

Hey Dave, hope you are well, congrats on the new rig, keep posting up some reports on it. :thumbsup:
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mingle
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Re: Best way to store Stealth Pro Fisha 550

Post by mingle »

If you're taking an A.I. offshore in bumpy conditions, keep-out lines are something that's pretty much essential - to prevent an aka-brace pin failure from capsizing the boat.

Again, I can't figure out how you guys break so many drives - apart from Shane and his freaky man-mantis legs snapping the pedal arms. I've done many hundreds of kms in my Hobies over the years and have really pumped those pedal hard and have yet to break anything. Snapped chains (or more likely pulling the steel-cables from the swages) can be prevented, to some extent, by making sure to properly wash and hose-down the drive after each trip and spray all of the metal parts with Innox, or similar. I always use WD-40 or RP-7 and have never had any issues - maybe I'm lucky? Dunno...

Have a look at this vid - you'll see the keep-out lines in the first part of the vid, before it goes blurry. You won't see much rougher conditions - can you imagine how far you'd get in a paddle-yak? :-)

I guess you'd need either balls of steel, or a brain the size of a peanut to try it - or possibly both...

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Re: Best way to store Stealth Pro Fisha 550

Post by Seasherpa »

mingle wrote: Have a look at this vid - you'll see the keep-out lines in the first part of the vid, before it goes blurry. You won't see much rougher conditions - can you imagine how far you'd get in a paddle-yak? :-)

Looks like SWR the first year we went up!
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Re: Best way to store Stealth Pro Fisha 550

Post by cheaterparts »

Seasherpa wrote:
mingle wrote: Have a look at this vid - you'll see the keep-out lines in the first part of the vid, before it goes blurry. You won't see much rougher conditions - can you imagine how far you'd get in a paddle-yak? :-)

Looks like SWR the first year we went up!
Image

smooth as what are you talking about
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Jordo
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Re: Best way to store Stealth Pro Fisha 550

Post by Jordo »

With all of the sinking that was happening I thought we were going to have to reclassify the sail boats as submarines :lol: ;)
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aussieDave
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Re: Best way to store Stealth Pro Fisha 550

Post by aussieDave »

I heard from Sam last night, he was poking around in his shed and come across this article;
page 1 reduced.jpg
page 2 reduced.jpg
page 3 reduced.jpg
From the Fishing SA magazine Oct/Nov 2104.

It looks like my new yak has some fishing mojo.
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aussieDave
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Re: Best way to store Stealth Pro Fisha 550

Post by aussieDave »

mingle wrote:If you're taking an A.I. offshore in bumpy conditions, keep-out lines are something that's pretty much essential - to prevent an aka-brace pin failure from capsizing the boat.

Again, I can't figure out how you guys break so many drives - apart from Shane and his freaky man-mantis legs snapping the pedal arms. I've done many hundreds of kms in my Hobies over the years and have really pumped those pedal hard and have yet to break anything. Snapped chains (or more likely pulling the steel-cables from the swages) can be prevented, to some extent, by making sure to properly wash and hose-down the drive after each trip and spray all of the metal parts with Innox, or similar. I always use WD-40 or RP-7 and have never had any issues - maybe I'm lucky? Dunno...

Have a look at this vid - you'll see the keep-out lines in the first part of the vid, before it goes blurry. You won't see much rougher conditions - can you imagine how far you'd get in a paddle-yak? :-)

I guess you'd need either balls of steel, or a brain the size of a peanut to try it - or possibly both...

Looks rough, not too rough by the video but if experience had taught me anything rough never looks as bad as it did in reality when it's on film.

They also broke parts on their Hobie.

I think I'll keep my Hobie that I love dearly for the bays and use my Stealth offshore.
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