Hey guys!

I have had my Elite Ti5 sounder for months now.. and I have tried to wire it up using blue block batteries.

I've had it working a few times, but it keeps dying and super frustrating!

SO.. I am wondering if anyone out there can give me a hand wiring it.

I am in Glen Waverley, and happy to drive to your place if its not too far. I'll be buying new wires, new fuse, new motorbike battery also.

If you are able to, please let me know if you can help!

Happy to exchange your time for beers or something.

Cheers,

Adrian

agelow wrote:Hey guys!

I have had my Elite Ti5 sounder for months now.. and I have tried to wire it up using blue block batteries.

I've had it working a few times, but it keeps dying and super frustrating!

SO.. I am wondering if anyone out there can give me a hand wiring it.

I am in Glen Waverley, and happy to drive to your place if its not too far. I'll be buying new wires, new fuse, new motorbike battery also.

If you are able to, please let me know if you can help!

Happy to exchange your time for beers or something.

Cheers,



Adrian

Adrian when buying your wire get tinned wire and not just plain copper it will last longer before corroding ( dreaded black death of wires ) - solder the joins and seal up the best you can

wiring inside a hull is in a really bad environment the hull getting warm and any water inside it steams up -- the resulting humidity get in the wires so rewiring is an ongoing thing
so it's worth getting a soldering iron and learn to do it your self

Thx for advice.

Any photos of type of wire or will Jaycar know tinned wires. Any specific thickness?

I don't think k the rewiring was due to humidity as the battery was never in my hull. It was in a waterproof box. But I didn't solder them..

Some places call it marine wire

eTwee wrote:Thx for advice.

Any photos of type of wire or will Jaycar know tinned wires. Any specific thickness?

I don't think k the rewiring was due to humidity as the battery was never in my hull. It was in a waterproof box. But I didn't solder them..

yes Jaycar keep tinned wire - I buy it there myself - from memory they keep it in 3 mm which is far bigger than needed and I grab a small spool in both black and red to make my loom easier to know which wire is which + or -

If you join wire anywhere try to use glue-lined heatshrink to protect it. This is better than ordinary heatshrink as the glue forms a much better seal. Jaycar has this stuff too; you can get it in individual lengths or they also have a pack of various sizes (more expensive though, you're better off just getting the sizes you need).

They also sell the special waterproof automotive connectors that are often used on kayaks (e.g. Hobie uses them on the batteries and cable they supply in their sounder installation kits). If you aren't using a waterproof connector of some sort (either that or another one) be aware that moisture could be getting in via that route, even as vapor, and this can cause corrosion. If you do get one of the connectors I mention let me know as there's a non-obvious step you need to take when crimping it.

chrisw wrote:If you do get one of the connectors I mention let me know as there's a non-obvious step you need to take when crimping it.

and solder the connections. In fact solder anything you dont have to disconnect, even spades to battery. Using only the above waterproof connections anywhere you disconnect.

Oxidised connections will cause a voltage drop, and sounder shut down (as I recently found out replacing a fuse without cleaning end caps on spare ) Oversized wiring will also reduce voltage drop, especially if battery is mounted down the back. Should be 3amp wiring if using a 3amp fuse.

If your system fires up but battery does not last long it could be inappropriate charger not fully charging them. I had this when using a car charger instead of proper sized one.

Adrian I'm in Oakleigh South I have a soldering iron, solder, wire strippers and crimpers.
Your welcome to borrow them if you need.

Matt.

chrisw wrote:If you join wire anywhere try to use glue-lined heatshrink to protect it. This is better than ordinary heatshrink as the glue forms a much better seal. Jaycar has this stuff too; you can get it in individual lengths or they also have a pack of various sizes (more expensive though, you're better off just getting the sizes you need).

I find the best method is to cover the join with hot glue, then put your heat-shrink on. The heat-shrink will mold the hot glue, and compress it around the join. It gives 100% waterproofing.

On the boat i use MC3 connectors which have a seal and keep out a lot of moisture, down side is you need a special crimper, but as they say, he who dies with the most tools wins (and I have so many types of crimpers)